WHAT WORKS FOR YOU?

My father was an officer in the navy. Other kids' fathers left for the office in suits. My father wore white cotton twill with gold buttons in the summer. Heavy ink colored gab in the winter. To say this was an influence on me is an understatement. I've been creating uniforms for myself and others all my life.

So what works for me now? Italian cotton twill shirts I designed in cool colors with white collars and cuffs. White Uniqlo jeans - T-000 - the leanest cut, and black Prada oxfords.

What works for you this summer? Share the info, spill the beans...

ANDY WARHOL

...I was going through some books today and came across pictures of Andy Warhol. I loved his look - the Brooks Brother's shirts, Levi's 501 jeans and preppy ties. It all looks good again - it actually never looked bad. 

Anyone else feeling this? 

This sketch of Warhol in drag inspired by a 1981 Christopher Makos photograph.

SECOND BOW TIE SIGHTING IN AS MANY DAYS!

I'm at the bank, and in front of me is a jackpot of looks all on one guy. The well cut oxford shirt, short pants, suspenders hanging (it worked, the guy must have been 21), the Converse shoe. But the killer was when he turned around, he was wearing a bow tie, undone - sitting just so...

My first thought was 'This dude works at Deisel' but where ever he works, there's something going on when I see 2 bow ties in late July at Union Square.

NOTHING SAYS SUMMER

...like a black bathing suit. Does it?

AMID THE SEA OF TITS, TATS & FLIP FLOPS

...walked something truly radical in Union Square Park. A guy in a bow tie, white shirt with jeans and oxfords. He was asian, which of course made the outfit all the more interesting. But that's what it's come to people. The head turner is the guy in the bow tie.

(Please remember to click on the picture to see it 'right sized')

THIS IS WALTER, BACK FROM TOKYO

...When I was a kid people came back from Japan with jade bonsai trees and geisha dolls. Now they bring anime t shirts (from UT, the Uniqlo T-shirt store) and gladiator sandals (from the store 'Hare').

Walter is very cool and kind enough to pose and chat.

OH. DID I MENTION I HAVE THE SAME JACKET

...in a very heavy denim construction Italian linen. It's the same 4 pocket jacket mentioned in the previous post. I have the samples from a line I designed which will not see the light of day, or the light of a retail store. But I'll spare you the details of that...

Anyway, the jacket is genius, if I do say so myself.

'SHOUT OUT' TO ILLUSTRATORS OF BYGONE DAYS

...I can't do this blog about illustration and menswear w/o recognizing some great illustrators of the 20th century. 

This cover was by an artist named Pierre Simon. I know nothing about this guy, but I love his work. Such a confident, bold line (I mean, look at her. Totally Juliette Greco-ed out). The magazine was called 'ADAM' - out of Paris. This issue is June/July 1951. I have about 10 issues - used to buy them from a guy in the Marais until even he couldn't find any more issues. 

In the issue you can see Americanism creeping into the lives of the French - Coke, TV, jazz. But there are pages of men hunting in suits (pheasant season is approaching!) that might as well have been from 500 years ago.

IT DOESN'T TAKE MUCH TO SHIFT THE BALANCE

...in menswear. I was walking down the street wondering what I would post next, when I looked up and saw this guy. White T shirt but the neck was a lot more open, lower and wider. Not girly. He wore big Ray-bans, black jeans and was walking a black bike. I love watching an icon like a white T shirt evolve and shape-shift with the times.

Streets of NYC never fail!

I DREW WHAT INSPIRED ME TODAY: ME!

...New York in late July and August is not at its most seductive. In reality, it stinks. Add to that the fact that I spent the day in mid-town -  it was not very inspiring.

So I figured I would sketch me in my favorite poplin safari-ish jacket I designed for a company I've been consulting for. White Italian stretch poplin + real sleeve button holes + great shape = summer relief.

SOMETIMES IT TAKES A LOST GERMAN TOURIST

...to realize how great plaid cowboy shirts really are.

JULY 20 = AUGUST IN NYC

...heads are shaved. Jeans are cut. Cuffed. Socks are an unnecessary layer.

KATE MOSS ON THE COVER OF AUGUST VOGUE

...and it's about time. This blog is for menswear. It's the area of design that I love, and feel not enough attention is given to it. But when it comes to Kate Moss, all rules go out the window. She's on the cover of the new US Vogue with a story as well.

There's also a much deserved story on a friend who has just as much style - Elissa Santisi. She's a Contributing Editor who I've know for many years, and who's never missed a beat look wise. Her quote about age 'I'm younger than I thought I'd be at this age' hits the nail on the head!

(Anyone know what the deal is with drawing from photographs? Am I pushing my luck here?)

'i live by the sea.' WTF??!!

I stumbled onto this site this evening. 'John Laurence. i am an Englishman. i live by the sea.'

The guy is a designer, or takes vintage pieces and reworks them. Either way, for my taste you can put almost anything on a vintage dress form and it will look good - but these pieces are so beautiful.

And the fact that he reveals so little about himself or the clothes - unlike the rest of us as we travel on this internet highway -  just makes it that much more interesting...

TODAY SUCKED...

Not totally. I had lunch with my friend Rebekah, who is inspiring, smart and funny - so that was great. And the end of the day was spent reading Tolstoy 'aloud' with a friend at the Charles St. pier (that was not my idea - I can't take credit for something that literate. James told me to bring something to read and I thought 'Vogue')

It was the time in between that I found my energy being sucked out of me. And why? Because I went to the Columbus Circle whatever it is and by the time I got past the Bebe shop I knew I had to get home fast.

On a more optomistic note, there were some nice things at J. Crew (the top of the 'C' reminds me of a fish hook). Very early Perry Ellis dots and navy or black on creme combos. I really liked the cardigan I sketched here.

Jesus. What's August gonna be like...

FOUND THIS STORE IN BROOKLYN

called ALTER www.alterbrooklyn.com. They had these great shoes - kind of a version of the Prada dress shoes on rubber sole. But these had a vibe all their own. And the store is great. The nicest person working there (I keep finding this in Brooklyn - nice people). And a very good mix of merch.

The store is doing so well they are expanding to a second space across the street. How great is that - someone doing well and expanding.

YOU KNOW IT'S MIDSUMMER IN NYC

when almost every color is either a shade of blue or white...

YOU KNOW IT'S MIDSUMMER IN NYC

when the idea of 'dressed up' is a pale orangecicle colored shirt with striped navy/white pants...

YOU KNOW IT'S MIDSUMMER IN NYC

when the guys wear white tank tops with their Hermes belts and jeans...

WE'LL SAY 'BYE' TO LUDLOW ST. NOW

and go back to Paris & Milan. Here's some of what I liked from the collections. 

1. Hermes

2. Paul Smith

3. Bottega Veneta

4. Dolce & Gabanna

MORE 'DEAD BETTIES'

this is the last sketch from last night that I post. I promise. It was just so much fun to listen to/watch/draw. 

THIS GUY WAS @ THE CAKE STORE TOO

White jeans. Grey T shirt. Buzzed haircut. 

GOT STOOD UP LAST NIGHT (FU Max)

but that's OK because it lead me to The Cake Shop on Ludlow St. It was kind of gay rock night there (myspace.com/QxBxRx)- heard great music from 'Dead Betties' & 'Two Tears' and genius MC Ben Lerman (www.benlerman.net). Took lots of photos with my phone and drew the inspirations today. 

The combination of the music, the gestures, the movement...loved taking it all in.

THIS IS WHY I LOVE NYC

Group of Asian dudes on the corner of 14th and Union Square West. In typical 20 y/o drag: high tops, big shorts, Urban Outfitter skinny jeans. But the kicker was the must have come from a Tibetan parade or something because they had bright plastic Tibetan flags draped around their necks.

It was just. so. great.

A FEW WEEKS INTO IT, AND IT FINALLY DAWNED ON ME

why I love blogging so much. It totally give me the false sense that I have control over my life - I love that! It's my favorite inner lie.

Self portrait here, in my favorite white oxford shirt...

MY THEORY IS 'THE OLDER ONE GETS

the more extreme the glasses.' As you can see by my new glasses illustrated here, I'm working up to a full on Ari Onassis. I got these at a place called SEE in Miami. I was so psyched to get something not available in NYC. Until I saw they had opened a store in the Mall on Bleeker St. er I mean Bleeker St.

I WENT TO A COOL PARTY LAST NIGHT

(I can't remember the last time I said that). Given by some art/fashion guys. In an empty space on lower Broadway. Kinda like old NYC before every square inch became a real estate deal with names like Jefferson. I know - sounding nostalgic and angry is not attractive.

So back to the party. Empty space with white walls. Lots of magic markers so the guests could draw/scribble on the walls. A great ice breaker - what better way to chat up a stranger than to asked them if they really did sleep with all the hosts as they're writing it on the wall?

And being a get together of art/hipster dudes, the unspoken uniform is illustrated here...

BIG SHOUT OUT TO ERICA

at Eva Scrivo for a kick ass haircut. Like a face lift and 3 months of therapy all in one. That's how good it feels!!

WHY IS IT THAT EUROPEAN MEN

take a look that is so American - here a pink oxford shirt, madras shorts, moccasins - and make it look better? Saw this guy in front of my apt building the other day. And I know he wasn't American because he was talking to a friend (Italian). The cut of the clothes - not so baggy, the color choices...all subtle but really nice. 

Maybe that's one reason why things seem pretty dire in the US right now - a sense of hopelessness and our look got co-opted.

WAS THERE SOME SIGNAL THAT WENT OUT

into the air like a dog signal that told guys to start rolling their pants up a couple of turns? Seems like it...

ROYELYN DROPPED BY TODAY...

To show me his new metallic copper Lanvin oxfords, and the jacket he transformed by changing the buttons and cutting off the sleeves. Clever guy. And the excitement about the shoes brought me back to my youth...as vague a recollection as it is. 

Meanwhile, at some point today he lost his wallet and I was telling him about how I was pickpocketed once when I first moved here (70's). Does that stuff still happen? 

I WANT THESE SHORTS...

Now! From Lanvin. A very cool way to do the baggy thing. Not to mention comfortable. Ready for these RIGHT NOW!

HAPPY 4TH!

This administration basically took a great brand (the USA) with amazing recognition and trashed it to pieces. It's gonna take a LONG time to get thing back in order. But it's still the best deal going (IMHO). 

The protests of the 60's brought integration, integration brought 'mixed' marriage, and that in turn opened the doors eventually to the idea of 'international' adoption. This leads me to my daughter, seen here with me and her mother on the last day of school (note her t shirt - 'deny everything').

So I'll stick with gratitude - for Thomas Jefferson, FDR, Dr. King. Everyone who promotes acceptance and tolerance - HAPPY 4TH of JULY!!

On another note, I see a lot of red sunglasses this summer...

GREY HEATHER T SHIRT

That's all I have to say. Grey heather T shirt. It doesn't really need anything else, no?

FROM 'PERMANENT FOOD'

Elsa Martinelli - fur, booze, cigarettes. No apologies. Living large in the early 70's.